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| Cut | Clarity | Luster |
| Hardness | Gemstones | Karats & Carats |
Cut: Gemstones are cut in a wide range of shapes,
and sometimes mixed shapes add a different look to jewelry designs. The
most traditional cuts in gemstones are: round, marquis, oval, baguette,
and cabochon.
Clarity: Lies in the visual perception of a gemstone. Our jewelry is graded by the observance of, or existence of inclusions in the stones. Inclusions may be a minor fault or cloudy area. Clarity is rated on this scale:
-Clean: stones that have no inclusions
-Eye clean: stones that are clean to the naked eye, but which may have
inclusions on microscopic examination
-Crystal transparent: Transparent, with outstanding brilliance, these stones
may have minor inclusions common to their type, but they in no way detract
from appearance or clarity.
-Transparent: These are gems through which light can pass, without scattering
the rays.
-Translucent: Similar in appearance to "transparent", these
stones may refract the light and scatter it.
Luster: Is the grade assigned by the manufacturer, to the gemstone's visual appeal, and is descriptive of its appearance.
Hardness- Often when people think about the hardness of a gemstone, they are considering its durability, when that is better expressed by assessing its "toughness", or the ability to withstand the normal knocks and falls that a piece of jewelry may encounter. A gem's resistance to abrasions is the accepted definition of "hardness". German minerologist Freidrich Mohls, devised a scale rating gems from 1 through 10, with 1 being very soft, and 10 the ultimate in hardness. The scale is somewhat misleading, because gems that are one numerical value above another, may actually be many times the hardness of the gem below it. Hardness ratings applied to a particular gem, mean that stone is capable of scratching others of its kind, or any other stones with a lower numerical value. However, no stone can scratch a diamond.
Karats and Carats: Gold is graded by the proportion of it in an alloy, or by rating the quality of a gold alloy.
-10k gold is 10 parts per 24 of alloy, or 41.67%
-14k gold is 14 parts per 24 of alloy, or 58.33%
-18k gold is 18 parts per 24 of alloy, or 75%
-22k gold is 22 parts per 24 of alloy, or 91.66%
Gemstones are graded in carats, a totally different measurement. And unlike gold, where "karat" defines the quality, in gemstones carats are simply a measure of size. In ancient times, it is said that the measurement originated throught use of the carob seed, weighed in balance against a stone. The carob seed was remarkable for its symmetry of shape and weight, and was considered a constant, and therefore reliable measure. In 1914, the metric carat was established, and declared to be .2 or 1/5 of a gram. The most easily calibrated stones are round ones, where the depth and diameter is measured, and the resulting value is in carats.
For those seriously interested in gemology, or the gems that they are purchasing, we recommend that you visit some of the better sites on the Internet, where you can find many excellent resources on the history, hardness, carats, colours, and other features of the precious and semi-precious gemstones in Finealta jewelry. Here are some brief descriptions of the gemstones that we carry most often.
Amethyst- is a variation of quartz that comes in purple, lilac or mauve, and can be heat treated to produce the gemstone citrine. Amethyst is the birthstone for February, and is found worldwide. It is sometimes heat treated to remove minor cloudiness. According to legend,the Greek god Dionysus turned a maiden named Amethyst into a pillar of stone, and in a fit of remorse, poured his wine over it, resulting in the rich purple colour.
Aquamarine- is the blue or blue/green variation of beryl, which is known by different gemstone names, according to its colour. It's found in Brazil, Russia, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nigeria and Madagascar. They are sometimes heat treated to purify the blue colour. The name derives from the Latin for "sea water", and ancient captains believed that this stone, which comes in various sea-coloured hues, would pacify the gods of the deep.
Beryl- the beryl is actually a group of crystal-type gems, including emeralds, morganite, heliodor, and others. Ancient Latin contributed their name as well, from the word "berullos", which means "crystal".
Citrine- another of the many gemstones to spring from quartz, it may be fused with other types of quartz to form different gemstones. Heating different types of quartz, including amethysts can produce citrine,which along with topaz, is the birthstone of November. Although the Romans were using citrines in carvings and jewelry as far back as the first century A.D., it was from the French word for lemon, "citrin", that it was named.
Diamond- the hardest of all natural gemstones, comes either with no colour, or yellow-tinged. There are the other colours, but they are not as sought after as the purely clear stones. Blue and pink enjoy some popularity, while only two red diamonds have ever been found. Little wonder they are associated with romance, since Ancient Greeks believed them to be tears of the gods, and splinters of falling stars.
Emerald- is the green variation of beryl, although not all green beryls are emeralds. Certain inclusions will distinguish the emerald from a green beryl. Emeralds are the birthstone for May, and are believed to have been first mined in Cleopatra's Egypt.
Garnet- there are six minerals, which in their various combinations, make different named and shades of granets. For example, Rhodolite garnets are a result of the melding of almandine and pyrope. The name is believed to have been derived from the word "pomegrante", a fruit with a hard red seed, much like the stone.
Onyx- is a variant of chalcedony, which is also part of the quartz class. Chalcedony is known by various gemstone names according to its colour. Onyx, one of the few uniformly coloured chalcedony stones, is either black or white, with a good chance that the black one have been dyed to cover impurities and enhance their appearance.
Ruby- one of the next hardest gems to a diamond, it has a dual personality. When coloured red, to murky brown, it is properly known as a ruby, including the Pigeon Blood Ruby. In any oher colour, it is what we commonly call a sapphire, coming in many shades. Rubies are the birthstone for July. Their name comes from "rubeus", Latin for "red".
Sapphire- or corondrums, are rubies if red, and sapphires in the traditional shades of blue. Other colours are commonly known as "fancy sapphires" and include those stones which change colour according to the lighting. Blue sapphires are the birthstone for September. They became the United States best-selling coloured gem, following the gift of an engagement ring and matching pendant to Princess Diana, by Prince Charles, in 1981.
Tanzanite- Zoisite crystals which are transparent, can be heat treated to produce the stunning blues and purples of tanzanite. The story is told, that this was discovered accidentally, after one of the summer's great bush fires in Tanzania, where flames swept over a deposit known to have the greenish natural rock, leaving purplish/blue crstals behind.
Topaz- the most valued stones are a strong yellow hue, and not the rich gold or Madeira sherry colours most people think of when you mention the stone. These colours, are actually a quartz. The yellow stones can be heat treated to produce pink gem.
Tourmaline- this stone has more colour variations than any other, with the lightest being the most valued.
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Finealta selects only the very finest glass, crystals and natural stone beads for our necklaces, and matching earrings. Our designers use "floss", tiger wire, and fine gauge gold wire, according to the weight of the beads, and the possibility of a bead's rough edge, damaging the core strand. Our findings, or accessories, are gold plated, including spacer beads, jump rings, and clasps, as well as the wires for earrings, which are gold plated over surgical steel. Besides glass and stone beads, we seek out the unique and different, to make your necklace stand out from the crowd. This may include, but is not limited to: porcelain beads, millefiori beads, gold-coloured pewter, cloisonne works, and carved bone. Finealta guarantees that your necklace is one of a kind. While we may repeat the combination of stones/beads, we will never knowingly produce the same necklace, twice. We also offer custom-designed necklaces and earrings to match other jewelry or outfits that you may have. For more information, write info@finealta.com
Gold Plating- base metal objects have an outer coating electro or mechanically plated on them, that is real gold, but is applied very thinly.
AB- This designation on a bead or necklace, indicates that it has the features of the "Aurora Borealis" or Northern Lights, in that the surface, no matter the colour, will reflect the same prism-like rainbows.
Agate- the many forms of agate, are varieties of chalcedony quartz, and may be transparent, or opaque. The blending of colours creates fascinating patterns and highlights. Among the common types are tree, moss, Indian, and lace. Solid colours suitable for carving, are called onyx.
Amber- is a result of fossilized resins from prehistoric forests. It comes in warm, rich tones ranging from light gold to deep, honey tints.
Aquamarine- is the blue or blue/green variation of beryl, which is known by different gemstone names, according to its colour. It's found in Brazil, Russia, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nigeria and Madagascar. They are sometimes heat treated to purify the blue colour. The name derives from the Latin for "sea water", and ancient captains believed that this stone, which comes in various sea-coloured hues, would pacify the gods of the deep.
Aventurine- also a quartz, in a jade-like green colour. It's composition often includes more than one mineral, but is usually quartz with some mica. Its colour means it is sometimes called Indian jade. Aventurine is seldom enhanced. It acquired the name from the French for accident, "l'aventure", when a Murano glass factory worker discovered it by chance.
Carnelian/Chalcedony- red, or orange/red translucent variety of chalcedony, occasionally with banded patterns like agates.
Citrine- another of the many gemstones to spring from quartz, it may be fused with other types of quartz to form different gemstones. Heating different types of quartz, including amethysts can produce citrine,which along with topaz, is the birthstone of November. Although the Romans were using citrines in carvings and jewelry as far back as the first century A.D., it was from the French word for lemon, "citrin", that it was named.
Cloisonne- sometimes referred to as cell enamelling, thin strips of metal are laid down in a pattern, or randomly, and powdered glass is poured into the "compartments" created by the metallic boundaries. After firing, the object has as many solid, coloured glass sections as the designer has created.
Crystal- high quality glass, invented in the 1700s. To qualify as crystal, rather than cut glass, it must contain at least 10% lead oxide, which is credited with giving the crystal its brilliance. In beadwork, one the best known maker is Swarovski, of Poland, followed by Czech crystals.
Fluorite- (Rainbow, lavender, etc.) Calcium Fluoride, CaF2, comes in a range of colours rivalled only by those of the quartzes. Hues include green, blue, purple, lavender, and the rarer reds and pinks, with intermediate pastel shades in between the bands of darker colours. Fluorites may have a single colour, or more often will occur in bands of colour as a result of the shape of its crystals.
Fossil- Fossils are formed in various ways. The ones most commonly recognized, are animal forms that have been petrified by rock minerals seeping in to replace soft tissue and other decomposing parts. Over time, and under pressure of growing layers of dirt over them, the animals' shapes become set in stone. There are also preserved fossils, such as insects found in lumps of amber. However, the beads that we use, are more likely a result of "replacement" fossilization, where organic material decomposition (vegetation, animal remains) allows rock minerals to meld into a layer, which are hardened after a time, and then dug out and cut into shapes.
Goldstone- is not a natural stone, but an imitation made by adding copper flecks when glass is at a molten stage. The result is something similar to obsidian, and is very durable.
Heliodor- a member of the group of semi-precious gems called beryls, heliodor comes in many sun-type shades, earning its name from the Greek words "doron" and "helios", for "gift" and "sun".
Hematite- "Haima", Greek for "blood", is the root name for this stone which appearing black, has a deep, red streak. Its iron ore composition makes it useful as pigment in powdered form.
Imperial Topaz- a heat-treated variation of common topaz, which produces a pink to orange pink colour.
Iolite- A pleochric era stone, iolite ranges in transparent shades from violet to grey, and may exhibit several different colours in one stone. It is known as the "water sapphire" and "Vikings' compass" for its ability to find true north on overcast days.
Jade- consists of two minerals, jadeite and nephreite, which are difficult to tell apart. Jade is reportedly a harder substance than steel, and the admiring Spaniards named it "piedra de hijada", "stone of the loins". The most highly prized jade from Burma, now known as Myanmar, is comprised of jadeite, and comes in the soft to deep shades of green, and sometimes lavender or blue, as well as yellow and white. Nephreite is the basis of jade that comes in deep green,black, yellow and white. We work mostly with genuine Burma jade, purchased in Hong Kong. Occasionally we may have some Canadian nephrite jade. Serpentine jade is actually just the mineral serpentine, but it has the transluscency and colour of soft to dark natural jade. In our necklaces, we sometimes use Dolomite marble, which has been treated and coloured to resemble natural jade, but it is easy to spot the difference, and we will always be sure you are aware of exactly what stones are in each item.
Jasper- is an opaque form of chalcedony, seldom found in solid colours, and if it is, the colour is never completely even. In general, jasper comes in mottled or spotted patterns in red, yellow and brown, and are coloured by iron oxides. Patterns of jasper in our necklaces include leopardskin, dalmation, fancy, and red poppy. On occasion we are fortunate enough to acquire the solids colours of brown, and red.
Labradorite- derives its name from the Labrador Peninsula in Canada, where it was first found, labradorite displays a range of colours under lights, including orange, yellow, green, blue and violet. It is often called "firestone" for the labradorescent quality of throwing back flashes of various colours at once.
Lampwork Beads- These beads are individually made by the artisan. The name originates before the time of propane torches as a source for heating glass. Beads were once made over the flame of lamps, and hence the name. The artisan takes a rod of glass, often a soft Italian type, and inserts the end into the flame to soften it. In their other hand they have a thin steel mandrel, the rod-like form on which the bead is created. As the glass softens, it is added to the end of the mandrel, which has been coated in a clay-based release substance. More is added and manipulated until you have the required shape. Designs are then added, by dropping or drawing "strings" of softened glass over the surface. Some lampwork beads are as simple as coloured swirls or raised bumps, and some as intricate as petaled flowers. When the bead is completed, it must be "annealled", or held at controlled temperatures in a kiln, and cooled slowly.
Lapis Lazuli- a royal blue, opaque stone, typified by streaks or patches of calclite, and flecked with pyrite. The deeper the blue, with less white patching is desired. Lapis is sometimes dyed to improve the colour.
Marble- one of the commonest, and oldest substances on earth, heaved up from the molten core of the planet, during the collision of the continents and subsequent shifting of the plates. Marble is basically a type of limestone, that takes a high polish. Primarily calcium carbonate, it is still a compound of minerals. On the floor of the ocean, the Titanic is contributing iron to the build up of particles starting another layer of history. Much of the limestone sold commercially, was formed millions of years ago. Today, it is carved, dyed, and used in jewelry. However, it is a heavy material.
Millefiori- is a glass bead, with a pattern applied to it. The pattern is embedded the entire length of a "cane" of clay or other heat pliable material. Thin slices are cut off the cane, laid on a flat surface, and the bead is rolled over it, so the slices become stuck to the bead's surface. The artisan continues to roll the bead, heating it slowly, until the edges of the cane slice become melded into the surface of the glass, and it appears that the pattern has been painted on, or is part of the original bead. This type of bead originates in Venice. "Millefiori" is Italian for "a thousand flowers".
Moonstone- Mildly irridescent and transparent, this variation of feldspar is usually milky white with an opalescent appearnce.
Mountain Jade- is not the natural gemstone jade, but rather a marbled stone which is a crystalline variety of limestone, containing over 40% magnesium carbonate.When it occurs in variegated layers, it's known as marble jade. Mountain jade is dyed the traditional colours of jade, as well as other shades.
Obsidian- is the result of lava pouring down the slopes of a volcano, into water, and cooling there into glass-like lumps that contain iron and magnesium, giving them a colour range of dark green to black, often mottled.
Onyx- is not just the common black colour most people associate with the word, but is also white to white/yellow, and can be opaque or translucent. Naturally black, onyx is usually dyed to improve the depth and consistency of the colour.
Pearl (Freshwater Rice)- cultivation of pearls began in China, some eight hundred years ago, but was not perfected in the modern world, until circa 1900A.D. While other stones are formed by fire, earth and time, pearls are the result of an organic process, by which a clam coats the foreign object that is placed inside it. Due to the fact that it is a naturally formed stone, and not one that is carved or cut, pearls that are pefectly round and matched, are highly prized.
Peridot- is a variation of the gemstone olivine, and is known for its brillian lime green shades. Cleopatra was reportedly very fond of peridots, which were often mistaken for the emeralds which were first mined in her native Egypt.
Quartz- was first known as "crystollos", the Greek for crystal, until it became apparent that quartz was in fact, the most frequently occuring gemstone on earth, and comes in a wide range of colours, some of which are not clear. Types of quartz include tiger's eye, amethyst, citrine, jasper and onyx.
Rhodonite- An attractive material, primarily pink, its name is derived from the Greek "rhodon" for "rose". It is such a unique colour, that in nature it can only possibly be mistaken for rhodocrosite, by colour. However, rhodocrosite is streaked with white minerals such as calcite, and is reactive to acids. The most prized rhodonite has a good matrix of black magnesium, and sometimes contains pyrite. Colour ranges from a delightful rose pink and black, to orange, flesh, and a rusty reddish brown.
Riverstone- Better known as limestone, this creamy, grey stone with subtle patterns, has long been used in holy structures, and as a protective element, said to benefit bones, likely because it's composition is largely calcium carbonate.
Rutilite- or rutilited quartz, is a quartz crystal in which there are inclusions, naturally occuring flaws or materials foreign to the stone, such as rutilite crystals, which may appear as fine, hair particles of different colours.
Tiger's Eye- a variation of quartz, tiger's eye begins life as the mineral crocidolite when it wedges its way into strands of quartz. Over time, the earth's pressure turns out two beautiful stones: the deep blue hawk's eye, and the warm, golden striped tiger's eye.
Topaz- the most valued stones are a strong yellow hue, and not the rich gold or Madeira sherry colours most people think of when you mention the stone. These colours, are actually a quartz. The yellow stones can be heat treated to produce pink gem.
Unakite- a very pleasing opaque stone made up of pink feldspar, green epidote, and quartz. The stone has no particular colour pattern like spots or barring, but is a molten blend of colour, with the larger proportion more often green epidote.
Vitrail- pays tribute to the art of stained glass. To make glass, manufacturers combine soda (lake or sea salt), sand and potash, heating it to as much as 1200-1500 degree celsius. The actual origins of stained glass are unknown, however the vitrail bead, with its optical illusion crystal composition, reflects a rainbow of light coloured as intensely as it's namesake.
Cleaning your Finealta necklace and other natural stone/gem jewelry: Natural stones and gems should not be subjected to abrasive or harsh substances. Acids are particularly hard on some surfaces, such as marble. Avoid vinegar and anything containing citric acid. There are rock and jewelry washes available, but a mild dish detergent will work just as well. Dry and polish with a soft cloth.
